Mustang Brake Bleeding Information.



Use the information at your own risk. There is no claim to accuracy.



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For the 2002 and earlier Mustangs without Traction Control, the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly does not require any special bleeding procedure. For the 1998 and earlier Mustang ABS systems, there are NO Special Procedures or Considerations in bleeding the system.

Again, this is only for the 1998 and earlier Mustangs. If you have a Piece of JUNK ABS system in a t-bird, then consider shoving that whole system up the engineer's >>>>. For my Old's, with a Delco VI system, I used a bi-directional ABS controller to home the system when I did a caliper change. For a Delco VI system, you "may not" need to. However, there are many systems that you have to!

For 1999+ Mustangs, with Traction Control, you SHOULD use a bidirectional controller when the ABS controller, MC, or any line between the two the Master Cylinder is replaced or opened. However, NO MUSTANG requires any type of ABS (or ABS/Traction Control) control when just the calipers or soft lines are replaced. Again, for those with traction control, the MC MUST NOT GO DRY.
Again, this is for Mustangs only, every ABS system is different! All t-birds have POS systems that are POS and they must also be controlled if you look even crossed-eyed at them. :-)



The Mustang, Corvette, NSX, MR2, etc, have the great fast Bosch ABS systems.

Directly for the 1998 Ford Service CD section for the Mustang.
Anti-Lock Brake System Bleeding
Service or replacement to the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly does not require any special bleeding procedure.
Follow manual or pressure bleeding procedures.



Vacuum bleeders are not "that bad" FOR ONE JOB! You NEED to use "grease" on the bleeder screws to prevent air from getting in on the threads. Plus, the rubber adapters get "loose" over time.

Do it the RIGHT way and the EASY WAY!

I have bleed brakes just about every way possible. Two person, speedbleeders, vacuum, running a tube from the bleeder into a bottle of brake fluid, those one-man bleeder that you hang on your fender (anywhere above the bleeder screw), and Pressure bleeding. My parents' neighbor has a very $$$ professional pressure bleeder that he got from a mechanic friend that upgraded to handle the zillon MC covers now a days. Once you pressure bleed, you NEVER go back! Plus, you can actually get a pressure bleeder *cheaper* than the vacuum system. Bleeding by vacuum and speedbleeders *depends on* your ability to get a *perfect* seal between the threads of the bleeder screw and the caliper (or brake cylinder). You do that with special grease or coatings. Plus, you still *have* to keep checking and filling fluid and get into and out of the car.
I do a yearly brake bleed on 3 cars (my stang and 2 Olds). I use a pressure bleeder. VERY fast, simple, quick. *I* never had soft brakes or air after bleeding with my pressure bleeder. Many people make CUSTOM caps for the MC on their car. That way, you don't have to tighten the adapter down "tight enough, but not too tight". I just use the adapter. However, some people have problems getting the adapter to line up and to be tighten "enough, but not too much".

Some examples of how to modify a MC cap, are at:
http://p-car.com/diy/bleeder/bleeder.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~asherson/Don/The_Brake_Bleeder/the_brake_bleeder.html
Note: *I* suggest that you buy a commercial pressure bleeder and then modify a cap to custom fit your car(s).


On my stang, I have speedbleeders. I put them one when I did my M2300K kit and ABS. When I bleed the brakes, I used the speedbleeders with just a tube going into a bottle, then I used vacuum (cool to do on speedbleeders! :-)), then I did a two-man brake bleed. When I did the two man brake bleed, I noticed that the special coating on the speedbleeders was wearing off. Here in New England, it's VERY Common for bleeder screws to RUST in after 5+ years. I wonder how the coating and the speedbleeder would do after 5-10+ New England winters.

Also, with pressure bleeding, you can *really open* the bleeder screw and get a good flush to help get out trapped air bubbles.

I recently did the calipers and lines on my Olds. It doesn't use a "screw on" MC cap either. It has a "screw click on" cap. So, I needed to use my speedibleed again. It's not as "easy" and foolproof as the Motive Power Bleeder. With the speedibleed, I had to connect a hose to my tire (for pressure) and I had to "clamp down" the adapter with "enough but not too much force". Not a big deal. But, I wish that Motive made adapters. Still, it was GREAT and EASY to bleed my brakes. The ABS in my Olds is the Delco VI system. So, I did the *correct thing* for that system and I used a bi-directional ABS scanner and "re-homed" the ABS. No need for any ABS interaction on Mustangs.


Dealers and garages use pressure bleeding. A reservoir is filled with brake fluid. It is the connected to the MC. The reservoir and MC are then pressurized (to ~15+psi). The bleeder screws are then opened slowly and you make sure all air bubbles are out. VERY simple!


Okay, I now have a FAVORITE pressure bleeder to suggest to people. :-)
From the Eastwood Company

Eezibleed Brake & Clutch Bleeder Kit
Item No. - 49070
Bleed Brakes/Hydraulic Clutches with Pressure - Pressure works better than vacuum because air is not pulled around the bleed fitting. Eezibleed uses a tire or tank set at 20 psi with the included reservoir bottle to inject fresh fluid into the master cylinder as the system is bled. Fits most imported cars. Can fit any vehicle by modifying a spare master cylinder cap by drilling a 3/8" hole and attaching the pressure/fluid hose with the included hardware. Includes pressurizing hose with tire stem fitting, assorted caps to fit many Lockheed and Girling systems, and instructions. Made in the UK.
Regular Price: $39.99 This item is in stock.


If you're just bleeding an '87 or newer stang, a very good unit is the Motive Power Bleeder (Model PBU101) . It's around $50 at: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm



See: http://www.motiveproducts.com/FAQ.htm
Also: http://www.motiveproducts.com/directions.htm
Q: Why do I need to bleed my brakes?
A: Brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere, lowering its boiling point and causing corrosion. Particulate contamination--microscopic particles of rust and rubber--hastens wear of moving components. This is why manufacturers and mechanics recommend fully flushing hydraulic fluid annually. In addition, whenever the hydraulic system has been opened (e.g. when a hydraulic system component is changed), the system must be bled of air.

Q: Why should I pressure bleed?
A: Pressure bleeding provides a safe and effective way to remove trapped air and other contaminates from the hydraulic system. A Motive Products POWER BLEEDER is easy to pressurize, and holds enough fluid for a complete system flush (most vacuum bleeders require repeated refilling of the reservoir.

Q: How does the POWER BLEEDER work?
A: The POWER BLEEDER works just like professional pressure bleeders. A tank containing hydraulic fluid is attached to the hydraulic system via a special adapter. The tank is then pressurized. When one of the bleed valves is opened, old or contaminated fluid is expelled as new fluid from the pressure tank is added.



I personally bought the speedibleed system, http://www.vq-speedi.com/ , because I also have a few metal Master Cylinders to bleed (e.g. my '69 Firebird).


I bought the pro kit for around $100 from: http://www.falcotools.com/
They were very slow to get me my kit. But, I did get it.



More sources for pressure bleeders:
Also, Northern Tool , and I'm sure other companies, sell K&D pressure bleeders.



Larger Picture
From: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=383192&categoryId=78106
4-Qt. Hand Pump Brake Bleeder Tank Tank has 10 1/2in. hose with quick-coupler and shutoff valve. Relief valve prevents damage from excess pressure. For standard and power brake systems. Use only with DOT 2, 3, 4, and 5 brake fluids. U.S.A.
Usually ships in 8 to 15 days
Ship Wt. 15.0 lbs
Item# 158058
Discount Price... $99.99






Larger Picture
From http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=383191&categoryId=78106
7-Qt. Diaphragm-Type Brake Bleeder Tank Tank has 10 1/2in. hose with quick-coupler and shutoff valve. Relief valve prevents damage from excess pressure. For standard and power brake systems. Use only with DOT 2, 3, 4, and 5 brake fluids. U.S.A.
In Stock
Ship Wt. 25.0 lbs
Item# 158057
Discount Price... $199.99





Some examples of how to make your OWN pressure bleeder at: http://p-car.com/diy/bleeder/bleeder.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~asherson/Don/The_Brake_Bleeder/the_brake_bleeder.html
Note: *I* suggest that you buy a commercial pressure bleeder and then modify a cap to custom fit your car(s).

I am not associated, in any way, with Speedibleed, Falco Tools, Motive Products, K&D, Northern Tool, or any of the other people or web sites mentioned. I don't receive any money, compensation, or anything for mentioning or recommending their products. I suggest and recommend their products because after spending MANY hours of searching for pressure bleeders, these are the products that I found that looked decent. I also recommend them because of the experience of others and my personal experience with the products. If you know of any other pressure bleeding systems, please let me know.

Another good article on pressure bleeding is at: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_bleed_brakes/914_bleed_brakes.htm



Bleeding Brakes on Mustangs


1998 and earlier Mustangs
For the 1998 and earlier Mustangs, the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly does not require any special bleeding procedure. For the 1998 and earlier Mustang ABS systems, there are NO Special Procedures or Considerations in bleeding the system.

Directly for the 1998 Ford Service CD section for the Mustang.
Anti-Lock Brake System Bleeding
Service or replacement to the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly does not require any special bleeding procedure.
Follow manual or pressure bleeding procedures.





2002+ Mustangs

Bleeding Components

Master Cylinder Priming In-Vehicle or Bench

WARNING: Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately.

CAUTION: Do not allow the brake master cylinder reservoir to run dry during the bleeding operation. Keep the brake master cylinder reservoir filled with the specified brake fluid. Never reuse the brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system.

CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.

NOTE: When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or installation of new components, air can enter the system and cause spongy brake pedal (2455) action. This requires bleeding of the hydraulic system after it has been correctly connected. The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment.

NOTE: When a new brake master cylinder (2140) has been installed or the system has been emptied, or partially emptied, it should be primed to prevent air from entering the system.

For in-vehicle priming, disconnect the brake lines.

For bench priming, mount the brake master cylinder (2140) in a vise.

Install short brake tubes with the ends submerged in the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478), and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.

Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (2455), or slowly depress the primary piston until clear fluid flows from both brake tubes, without air bubbles.

If the brake master cylinder has been primed at the bench, install it in the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 206-06 .

Remove the short brake tubes, and install the brake outlet tubes.

Bleed each brake tube at the brake master cylinder as follows:

Have an assistant pump the brake pedal, and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.

Loosen the rear most brake tube fittings until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the brake tube fitting.

Repeat this operation until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary. Repeat the bleeding operation at the front brake tube.

Master Cylinder Priming 4.6L

CAUTION: Use only bleed screws on the engine side of the brake master cylinder (2140). The hydro-boost bleed screw, located near the dash on the hydro-booster casting, is for the booster cavity filled with power steering fluid, not brake fluid.

  1. Connect a clear waste line to the bleed screw closet to the booster first and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
  2. Open the bleeder screw, have an assistant push the brake pedal down slowly through full travel, close the bleeder screw, then return brake pedal slowly to full released position. Wait five seconds, then repeat operation until air bubbles cease to appear.

Repeat Step 2 for bleeder screw farthest from hydro-booster.

 

Caliper

NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper (2B120) was disconnected.

  1. Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw (2208). Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
  2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2455) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
  4. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
  5. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) as necessary.
  6. Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.

 

 


Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)


NOTE: The following procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been installed new or if the HCU lines have been opened.

Special Tools:
Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS)
418-F224,

New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester
418-F052, or equivalent scan tool
NGS Flash Cable
418-F120 (007-00531) or Equivalent


Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
  1. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap (2162), and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) with the specified brake fluid.
  2. Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw (2208) and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
  3. Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal (2455), tighten the RH rear bleeder screw. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
  4. Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
  5. Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper (2B120) bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
  6. Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.

Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.





Mustang Brake Information Home page: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/brakes/